We were up before dawn, found a bar that was open for our Coffee con Leche and Carbs
and these statues.
Mary, Joseph, Jesus with a Pilgrim
Note the smile faces on the sunflowers............
The piles of dirt
are a mystery to me ......
Roman Walls
8: 30 AM
The sun continues to
adorn us on our way
Shade trees bring
bright sunshine
We found a picnic table to
give us a resting place
Followed by an open sunny road - High 75, with nice breeze most of the day.
Followed by more fields and open roads -- we stopped several times to massage our feet and / or change our socks.
We arrived with tired feet -- elevation of legs to prevent swelling in one's ankles...
We found a nice Albergue at El Palomar for 9 Euros each,
with bathroom down the hall
with bathroom down the hall
then we walked around the village...
Walked to the top of the hill in the village to check out the church
--- view over looking the village ----
We had dinner with Jay and Tony
-- one of the best Pilgrim meals so far
Scallops with vegetables (served in a scallop shell),
bread
bread
Salmon, Melon, bread
& wine ---
& wine ---
One of the dogs at the Albergue -- all the dogs we saw along the way
were friendly - those that were not tied up, there was no issues. There were a few
that were tied up and only a few of them barked at us.were friendly - those that were not tied up, there was no issues. There were a few
Sept 28th, 2015 - Ledigos to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos
18.7 miles / 30 Km
We took off at 7:30 after our Coffee con Leche , with our headlamp.
then a glorious sunrise
Our destination was 10 miles away.... There was 1 Albergue only 5 miles ahead of us;
yet we were determined to make it to pre-planned village of Calzadilla
The path
turned to
gravel
with
very
few
signs...
We did not see any other pilgrims, and to us the guide book was a bite confusing
The path continued on ..... and we had great energy, we followed the guide book, with the instructions to take the road over the roadway -- looking for yellow arrows, and not finding any - so....... we took the path that went over the motorway --- our path was now to the north of the roadway, and if we would have been more aware, we would have realized that we needed to be on the south of the roadway... After 1 hour of walking and finally realizing this, I wanted to continue on; knowing that we had many miles to go with only one Albergue between us and our final destination. (With such few options for a bed, it is feasible that there will be no room at the Albergue 5 miles from Sahagun). So we continued on the "unmarked" path which was parallel the roadway, and we knew we were going in the right direction. Then the path started going away from the roadway, so we followed a tractor path, climbed down and up a ditch and ended up in a farmer's field that had been plowed. The walking through the field was not easy, due to the lumps of dirt. When we could go no farther in the field, due to a row of trees, we headed for the roadway only to find out that there was a fence between us and the roadway -- if you look close you can see the wire fence; which was about 6 feet tall. We carefully climbed over the fence, down the ditch and up onto the roadway.
--
Nancy had never climbed a fence before - for me, I'm a farm gal, so no big deal
(except that we were trespassing..... )
Nancy had never climbed a fence before - for me, I'm a farm gal, so no big deal
(except that we were trespassing..... )
you could see the town of Calzada de Coto in the distance
and believed
we were
heading in the
correct direction.
We were happy to be over the fence and on the roadway
and believed
we were
heading in the
correct direction.
We were happy to be over the fence and on the roadway
It is now almost 2:30 PM and when we arrived in Calzada de Coto and found the yellow arrows we were elated; and had a great amount of energy to continue another 5 miles. Nancy was 'afraid' that I would want to stay in Calzada de Coto -- We did not talk about this. I knew that she was thinking that I would want to stop in Calzada de Coto AND I was determined to make our destination. Plus I paid no attention to how far we had come, nor how far we still needed to go. We munched on apples as we walked through Calzada de Coto and found that
our way was well marked along this dirt path.
We came to a resting place - picnic area, we have no idea how far we have come or how much farther our destination lies ahead of us...
This cool place with picnic tables gave us hope that we were close to the village.
I have been listening to music to help the time pass faster... This cool place with picnic tables gave us hope that we were close to the village.
cute Pilgrim sign..
Arrived in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos at Via Trajana Albergue at 5 PM
--- READY for a beer !!!!!!!!!!!!!
--- READY for a beer !!!!!!!!!!!!!
The Pilgrim meal was fabulous - and we slept like babies.
Sept 29, 2015 -- Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to
Mansilla de las Mulas 15.2 miles / 24.5 Km
Now, you might be wondering why we would be pushing ourselves 2 days in a row -- We wanted to arrive in Leon on Sept 30; as our dear girlfriend, Chris and 2 of her girlfriends were on a driving vacation and were to be in Leon on the 30th; plus we knew we would have 2 days of rest once we arrived in Leon. AND there is only one other Albergue between these 2 cities. So stubbornness and determination pushes us forward. We feel well rested and Nancy is managing her blister well. I have 3 small blisters that I have been treating; and they are not causing me any grief or pain.
An awesome sunrise greets us in the morning.
We are greeted by Farmers
Resting and enjoying the day....
Passed by a canal for irrigation for farmers
We saw several caterpillars and one mouse (the mouse would not hold still for a photo)
Nothing to do except keep walking
1230: time to rest and have lunch -- bread and cheese
and change socks
and change socks
time for more attention to the feet
Village of Reliegos
Church cemetery - they all have fences around them and are next to a church
Most of the cemeteries had very old tomb stones, and ones with people
who had died after the year 2000
Most of the cemeteries had very old tomb stones, and ones with people
who had died after the year 2000
We met this Pilgrim in Reliegos
Cute Bar and lovely village
Playing Country western Music - Johnny Cash
Playing Country western Music - Johnny Cash
Lovely fall colors
No hills today - lovely flat path
Entering Mansilla de las Mulas
Enjoying empanada (tuna turnover) and wine
Sept 30, 2015 Mansilla delas Mulas to Leon 11.6 miles / 18.6 Km
Love the beautiful sunrise this morning.
walked a steady pace, flat path. 3 small villages along the way
Cute car with advertising
Lovely tree
Walkway over roadway
Coming into Leon
Rest break -- before we enter the city and attend to feet
After a little searching we found the Hostel where we had reservations. San Martin Hostel
A lovely Hostel, the owner was very gracious - she did our laundry for us.
We met other pilgrims in the courtyard
Courtyard from our room in the Hostel
We met our friends at 5 PM -- Used WhatsApp to connect with them
Nancy, Pat, Chris, Bette, Karen
Oct 1st & 2nd -- play time in Leon
Leon Cathedral and plaza
Inside the Cathedral
Bus ride around the city
Our favorite bartender
Some of our wonderful food entries...
Chicken and rice
Pizza
Ham and bread
Lentil soup and cheese cake
Pork chop and french fries
Yum Yum
Nancy using her translator app on her phone to ask for directions...
We ran into many Pilgrims that we knew: Bonnie and Sandra
(we were so excited to see them again),
Paddy, Ethna, Toni, Dave & Patti, Jay and Tony and Charlie ( we thought Charlie would have been days ahead of us; but he was held up with sore feet)
(we were so excited to see them again),
Paddy, Ethna, Toni, Dave & Patti, Jay and Tony and Charlie ( we thought Charlie would have been days ahead of us; but he was held up with sore feet)
We all had a fabulous time -- Chris, Karen and Pat leave in the morning for Sarria and
they will walk the last 100 Km of the Camino to Santiago.
Oct 2, 2015 -- Bette and Nancy in Leon
Nancy is a RN educator at Bellevue College near Seattle and that college has a contract with Leon University to send Nursing students to Bellevue College for one year. Nancy had a morning appointment with Daniel, the Director of International Studies. We took the 8 AM bus to the university.
Daniel and Nancy at the University
Plaza by the Parador de León Hotel
This five star Parador was originally a monastery founded in the twelfth century to provide lodgingfor the pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia.
It later became the headquarters of the Order of Saint James whose soldiers provided protection for the pilgrims.
The original building was demolished in the sixteenth century and the construction of the present building, on the original site, commenced in 1515. Magnificent cloisters were added and improved between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries which look over the gardens.
Local Musicians
Shopping -- I had lost my rain poncho that went over my back pack and Nancy
found a top she needed. We wanted to be prepared for the colder days that lie
ahead of us when we hike up some mountains.
Oct 3, 2015 -- Leon to Villar de Mazarife 14 miles / 22.5 Km
We left at sunrise, it took us 1 1/2 hours to get out of Leon and it's suburbs
This is the first village we walked through after leaving the suburbs of Leon
very cute village
very cute village
Looking back towards Leon Only two small hills to climb today
stopped at a resting area
Happy to be at our destination
Another Pilgrim we met at this Albergue - she is a physician
Some of the best food -- Paella was fabulous can be made with
Gazpacho soup fish, chicken, beef, or veg.
Yummy desert
October 4, 2015 - Villar de Mazarife to Villares de Orbigo
10.5 miles / 16.9 Km
After a non-traditional breakfast of cereal, toast, yogurt, coffee con leche
we left at 9 AM, with light rain
we left at 9 AM, with light rain
The first village, Villavante; was 6 miles / 9.5 Km up the road -- temperature in the 60's
We stopped for coffee con leche and to check our feet. It is Sunday, so we were fortunate that there was a bar open so early in the morning.
Large snails enjoying the light misty rain
We can see the village of Villares de Orbigo in the distance (we hope)
The road is now a little muddier with only a slight rain off and on.
All bundled up against the rain -- My rain pants and jacket kept me warm and dry
Sign on our door -- The top bunk remained empty,
we had our own private bath - towels provided.
we had our own private bath - towels provided.
In the bar across from the Albergue, We Shared a ham and cheese sandwich
Men playing cards...
October 5, 2015 Villares de Orbigo to Santa Catalina de Somoza
14.5 miles / 23.5 Km
It rained fairly hard during the night and during breakfast at 7 AM the rain was still heavy. Kristine had cereal, toast, and coffee ready for us. We left ta 9 AM, after the rain started to subside.
One of the Pilgrims ready for walking in the rain............. :)
and trucking through the mud to feed the cows and horses
- This was near a Vendor , out in the middle of nowhere
Cross at the top of the hill just before Astorga
Pilgrim at the bottom of the hill -- one of the many drinkable water fountains
I left my glovesin the Bar
and one of the
customers
brought them
to me as we
crossed the
street.. I was so grateful !!
The Clouds are looking a little darker, so we put our rain cloths back on ..
The churches were beautiful. Only one of them was open
We left Astorga around 1 PM. Walking out of Astorga we were parallel to the roadway,
and were almost splashed by the cars as
they drove by.... No worries - we still had our
rain pants and jackets on and were staying dry.
After more muddy paths, We found a Tapas bar in Murias de Rechivaldo -- yummy vegetarian Bar. We were the only customers.
The soil was a deep red color
only 2.7 miles / 4.3 Km to our destination.
as we progressed closer to Santa Catalina the clouds were moving away from us.
- there were only 2 other Pilgrims there with us:
CeCe & Bob from Salt Lake City. We had a lovely eve. with them, sharing stories
3 beds in our room - with our own bathroom and towels - 20 Euros per person
Sept 6, 2015 -- Santa Catalina de Somoza to Foncebadon
11 miles / 17.8 Km
The first 10 Km was a gradual incline, with a steeper mountain of 300 meter elevation
towards the end of our day.
- approximately 8 AM - Leaving the village of Santa Catalina with a beautiful sunrise -
By 11 AM, the clouds were a little lighter.............. entering El Ganso
In El Ganso
I came across
the Cowboy Bar
A cute place -
of course, with
country western
music --
Nancy was ahead of
me and she did not
stop at this bar.
Patti and Dave were here
nice to see familiar faces. They stayed for a while and I kept going .
Inside the Cowboy bar
More rainbows............
A little sunshine.... and a little rain - it was an amazing feeling having the sun on my back and the light rain falling on me.
A few rocks on the path,
otherwise the way
is easy
Poster at a rest stop
Lovely ferns.......
After the lovely ferns and easy path, the rains came and for about 20 min. with gusty winds all around me -- I was so happy to see Nancy at the Bar in Rabanal del Camino - it is now 1:30. we had Coffee con Leche and egg tortilla. After we rested and ate, the skies were lighter and we were ready to move onward.....
Then 20 minutes before entering the town, the winds picked up with gusty from all directions, with light to heavy rains. I was cold and tired by the time I arrived in the town. I found Nancy at the Convento de Foncebandon Albergue. We had a very comfortable , warm room (some Albergue did not turn the heat on as it was too early in the season to do so).
October 7, 2015 Foncebadon to Ponferrada 15.5 miles / 25 Km
Today we will be hiking down the mountain - approximately 2780 feet / 850 meters. We left just before sunrise - 8 AM
I loved the sunrise. The first 1.2 miles was a gradual incline
After another 1.5 miles, I reached Manjarin. The only structure here is a 35 bed ( mattress on the floor) Hostel with outside toilet. A businessman from Madrid, who gave up his successful business to run this Hostel, could be heard singing a chant. I talked to a lady Pilgrim who stayed here - the Hostel is set up like a mid-evel dwelling. It was very dark at night, yet very peaceful, with a delicious meal cooked by the Pilgrims.
One more mile of slight elevation, then it was downhill all the way to Molinaseca, approximately
6.8 miles / 11 Km. The country side was beautiful !!!! The path was rocky and I was blessed that it was not raining, as it would have made the walking much more dangerous. I took my time and truly enjoyed the scenery
After another 2.4 miles (1 hour 20 min = 20 min. slower then my usual pace)
I entered the village of Riego de Ambros
I entered the village of Riego de Ambros
In the guidebook, the rest of the downhill path does not look that steep; but in reality, this was the most difficult path due to the continued steepness and the large rocks. My pictures do not show the steepness of the decline.
the village looks so close; yet there were steep declines ahead
Nancy had already checked into the Hotel in Ponferrada which was 4.3 miles / 6.9 Km away.
I decided that I had had enough walking for one day - Mostly my energy level was at an all time low. My leg muscles and knees only ached slightly and I knew I did not want to walk for another 1 1/2 - 2 hours. So for 6 Euros I took a taxi to El Castillo Hotel and met Nancy.
I decided that I had had enough walking for one day - Mostly my energy level was at an all time low. My leg muscles and knees only ached slightly and I knew I did not want to walk for another 1 1/2 - 2 hours. So for 6 Euros I took a taxi to El Castillo Hotel and met Nancy.
After resting, we toured the Castle. It was most fortunate that we stayed in Ponferrada, as we had time to go to the Castle; plus it was the day of the week for free admission.
When the Monarchs of León donated Ponferrada to the Order of
Temple,
in the year 1178, the Templar knights found a small fortress that had originally been a castle and later on a Roman citadel. They extended and improved it in order to defend the Road to
Santiago;
it would be finished by the year 1282. The Castle
nowadays is the result of several building works.
Inside the walls
of the Castle
Plus the most Yummy desert - cake at the bottom with creamy pudding and whip cream
Oct 8, 2015 --- Molinaseca to Cacabelos 15.5 miles /25 Km
It does not matter how one takes their journey, it is all about the experience
So -- I decided I wanted to walk the 4.3 miles / 6.9 Km that I had missed walking yesterday.
I took a taxi back to the El Palacia and started walking towards Ponferrada at 7:30 AM.
At 9:20 AM, I walked past the castle, stopped for Coffee con leche and coffee cake - YUM. I headed east out of Ponferrada, with plans to meet Nancy in Cacabelos. There were few signs to follow, so I asked twice if I was on the correct road. The Spanish people are always eager to assist us Pilgrims. The second week we were on our Camino, we came to a large Plaza in one of the larger cities; and we stopped to look for the yellow arrow, and almost immediately, one of the men sitting on the park bench pointed in a direction and said "Camino this way".
Pictures of the city as I'm leaving Panferrada --
At 1045 AM, I walked into the next village of Columbrianos
I stopped at a Bar and had a ham and cheese sandwich -- It was huge
-- I ate 1/3 of it and stuffed the rest in my back pak.
There was a cooking show on the TV in the Bar
A few of the buildings in Fuentes Nuevas
A easy 1.5 miles later, I enter the Village of Camponaraya
Leaving the village - I met a few Pilgrims along the way
- Fran, Dennis, Brent, Richard, Natalie,
- Fran, Dennis, Brent, Richard, Natalie,
Looking back towards Componaraya, ahead of me is a bridge over the roadway
I'm now in vine country
Entering Cacabelos . As I came to the top of this ridge, there was a Spanish lady picking lavender - I made the comment on how lovely - she gave me a large handful. I carried this with me until I reached Santiago.
Wall Mural
We had reservations at Santa Maria Hostel.I found the Hostel with no difficulty, and
Nancy had checked in and her
back pack was in the room.
About the time I was ready to
explore the city, Nancy
showed up - she had washed her
cloths out by hand and hung them
up to dry. There have been times that our cloths are not dry in the morning - so pinning them to our back pack has been a good way to dry our cloths...
Museum in the village
Note the either
real or fake hair
River and park in the village of Cacabelos
We had our Pilgrim meal with Rosalia, Katheryn from Canada
Christan and Josetta from France
Christan and Josetta from France
October 9, 2015 -- Cacabelos to Trabadelo 12.4 miles / 20 Km
Coffee con Leche and toast, then we are on our way by 8:20 AM. The path leads us over the river, along the roadway and towards the vineyards.
We are blessed with a gorgeous sunrise
We are blessed with a gorgeous sunrise
Vineyards -- different varieties
The village of Villafranca del Bierzo in the distance
Villafranca del Bierzo
and stop for a snack
and Coffee con Leche.
We met a 21 year old young lady who was walking the Camino with her Grandma. They were from Oregon
We have 2 options... We decide to take the path that goes up the
mountain with an elevation of 1150 feet.
mountain with an elevation of 1150 feet.
The initial incline is very steep.
Looking up the path .............
I moved ahead of Nancy for a short time --
looking back at Nancy & the village of Villafranca del Bierzo
looking back at Nancy & the village of Villafranca del Bierzo
The Path continues up and up and up
Here we found rock formations and words on some of the rocks
We thought we were the only 3 people on the mountain, then
we find Natalie from Los Angeles and Anna from Belgium
we find Natalie from Los Angeles and Anna from Belgium
The path continues and -- a few more trees,
but no sign of coming down the mountain for what seems like a long time...
We now have come to a grove of fig trees, and the farmers - men and ladies are filling bags with
figs. One of the farmers tells us that we can cut through the trees -- with our previous adventure of going off the designated Camino trail, we decided to follow the yellow arrows.
figs. One of the farmers tells us that we can cut through the trees -- with our previous adventure of going off the designated Camino trail, we decided to follow the yellow arrows.
Then the path leads us off the road, and down a fairly steep path....
Looking back at the path - you can see the steepness .... Ahhhhhhh
1:20 PM ---- We can now see the village of Trabadelo -- we had planned to go to the village after Trabadelo; but we both by now were ready to be done walking for the day.
The path switches back and forth.... with a steep decline.
We find a room at the first Albergue we come to...... Yeah !!
A little Ibuprofen helped ease my achy feet.... This is the first time that my feet
truly ached.
A little Ibuprofen helped ease my achy feet.... This is the first time that my feet
truly ached.
One of the local Spaniards.We met Hal & Mo from Canada, Terry & Duncan from Calif. --
Had a fabulous Pilgrim meal
pesto soup, trout, custard.
I looked at all the stamps I had on my 'passport' I'm amazed at how far I have come in 29 days
Nancy wants to walk farther tomorrow -- I am choosing to walk 11 miles / 17 Km
due to the 1800 feet / 550 meter elevation in these 11 miles I will stay in Laguna.
We have plenty of time, as our flight to go back home does not leave Paris until Nov 1st.
Nancy wants to walk farther tomorrow -- I am choosing to walk 11 miles / 17 Km
due to the 1800 feet / 550 meter elevation in these 11 miles I will stay in Laguna.
We have plenty of time, as our flight to go back home does not leave Paris until Nov 1st.
October 10, 2015 --- Trabadelo to Laguna de Castilla
11 miles / 17 Km
On our way by 7 AM -- a lovely day -- Temps in the low 60's - No rain today...
8:30 we stop in La Portela de Valcarce for coffee con leche and food...
We followed the road that paralleled the river
9:15 AM entered Vega de Valcarce
We often saw cloths hanging on the line in the villages
This dog did a lot of barking -- so glad he did not jump the fence..
So far the path is without elevation -- entering Ruitelan
Stopped in the church to say a prayer
Lovely countryside - peaceful
Entering Herrerias --
Interesting signs on the bathroom doors - we will soon be entering the Providence of Galicia with different language for some things and specific foods to this region.
There are advertisements to have a guide take one to the top of the mountain via horses --
any way one needs to get to the top is OK.... we walked...
any way one needs to get to the top is OK.... we walked...
We continue to follow the river ( rio Pereie)
Starting to see
more cows
Path starting to
gain elevation...
We are now off the road and on a dirt path in the forest
This is where I loose Nancy, as I slow down, and she speeds up
I arrive at the small Village of La Faba. It's noon, and I rest for awhile,
have some snacks that I have in my pack back and decide to continue.
The path is rocky and steeper.... I met a couple (looked to be a few years older then me) from Canada. The wife had fallen last Nov, and had 3 screws put in - just like me when I fell last February. We shared rehap stories -- She had no physical therapy after her operation. I can not imagine me doing this without having had my great physical therapy team after my surgery.
Here are the horses that I could have rented to get myself up this mountain.
Wish I was on one right about now......
Wish I was on one right about now......
At the top of the hill there are 4 horses -- The owner is unable to get 2 of his horses to continue on the path -- they want to eat the grass... He asked me to chase them towards him -- I was able to do so; but they only just crossed the road to a greener pasture.
Beautiful views.... 
The Path continues......
Looking back to see how far I've come
Arrived in Laguna de Castilla at 1:30 PM. Tired and ready to stop for the day.
Regarding the house in this photo -- the animals live in the bottom floor,
the family is on the second floor - this is done to help with heating the house.
Winters in this area a very cold with snow.
Regarding the house in this photo -- the animals live in the bottom floor,
the family is on the second floor - this is done to help with heating the house.
Winters in this area a very cold with snow.
This is a very small village,
La Escuela Albergue - family owned - I found Patti and Dave
here - it was nice
to see familiar faces.
I stayed in a 8 bed room
Dave & Patti also slept there.
We shared the Pilgrim
Meal together
-- Potato Soup, chicken,
french fries and custard.
I saw several herds of cows being herded through the town
A farmer & his son
- This is so precious !!
Next Blog - in the Providence of Galicia
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